8/2/2023 0 Comments Star wallpaper pink![]() ![]() Designed by the in-house creative team (Alessandro Michele’s successor Sabato de Sarno will present his first collection in September), it followed the high-octane rationale of the womenswear collection presented in Milan in February – with its clear nods to Tom Ford’s tenure in the 1990s. Doubling as a celebration of the Italian house’s longstanding links with South Korea – it first opened a store in Seoul in 1998, and has undertaken numerous projects in the country since, from restaurants to arts and cultural happenings – the collection itself was a vivid amalgam of influences, a reflection the ‘expressions of multicultural style found’ on the buzzing city’s streets. Gyeongbokgung Palace, a 14th-century royal residence in Seoul built by Korea’s Joseon dynasty, provided the setting for Gucci’s latest cruise show which took place yesterday evening (). ‘A constellation of places that spark emotions – this is what Mexico is to Maria Grazia Chiuri,’ said Dior. A multitude of local craftspeople contributed to the intricately imagined collection, from Sna Jolobil weavers to jewellery made using the Plata Villa workshops in Mexico City. ![]() A men’s three-piece suit, meanwhile, nodded to Kahlo’s desire to transgress gender in her clothing, while other silhouettes riffed on traditional Mexican garments, like the huipil tunic. ![]() The former school was chosen for its historic association with Frida Kahlo, who studied there as a youth and met long-term partner, artist and mentor Diego Rivera in its hallways (together, they would come to define contemporary Mexican art). Kahlo’s influence was evident across the collection through its vivid motifs of flora and fauna, while other garments were drawn from those the artist wore in her lifetime – like a striking pink gown that appears in one of her several self-portraits. On Saturday evening (20 May, 2023), current creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri forged her own links with the county, holding her latest Cruise collection in Mexico City’s Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso. In 1947, Christian Dior created a dress titled ’Mexico’, the beginning of a little-documented but longstanding relationship between his eponymous house and the country – in 1950, he would beginning selling his clothing at Mexico City’s El Palacio de Hierro (Mexican actress María Félix was an early adopter and ambassador), and later, his successor Marc Bohan would show collections at Camino Real hotel. ![]() Nods to the overwhelming beauty of the Baroque surroundings came in a slew of evening dresses which closed the show, replete with enormous sleeves and delicate fronds of tulle – as if mermaids emerging from the deep. Reimagined in Ghesquière’s idiosyncratic, time-travelling style, the collection was one of transformation: scuba jackets and skirts had reptilian flares, feathers sported from enormous headdresses, and paillette-covered skirts shimmered like fish scales. The mythic nature of the island – transformed by Carlo III of the House of Borromeo as a gift for his wife – inspired a dreamlike collection, which looked towards tales of mermaids and dragons (‘drifting creatures that abandon aquatic dwellings for the discovery of terrestrial wonders,’ as the notes described). On drizzly Isola Bella – a small private island on Italy’s Lake Maggiore – Nicolas Ghesquière presented his latest Cruise collection for the house, set amid the hallways of the 17th-century Palazzo Borromeo (originally, the show was meant to be held in the island’s famed floating gardens due to the downpour, it was moved indoors). (Image credit: Courtesy of Louis Vuitton) ![]()
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